Proto 2000 PA circa 1995

These popular locos in the blue box have a MAJOR drawback for DCC:
Out of the box, the stall current runs between 3 and 4 amps!

The Can Motor Repowering Kit by A-Line 116-70321 designed for Athearn diesels can be modified to remotor the loco.

REMOTORING: Remove the old electronics and the main weight and the motor. Unscrew the weights from the motor and the motor from the bracket. Connect wires to the motor (orange to +) and use shrink tubing to secure them. Use a tapered reamer or other tool to enlarge the opening in the end of the mount with the holes on a diagonal and test fit the motor. Use bathtub caulk on the motor to bracket interface on the end with the diagonal holes (keep caulk off the shaft and bearing) and screws in the end with the straight across holes to secure the motor to the bracket. Put the flywheels back onto the motor. Reinstall the motor in the frame. Here is a photo of the final assembly before installation into the frame. The end of the motor with the wires goes toward the rear of the loco.


PREPARING THE WEIGHT: Using a hand saw and a belt sander (or a milling machine if you have one available), remove the weight above the motor. Reassemble the weight to the frame. Your loco should now look like this photo:


BASIC INSTALL: Build a shelf using the styrene about 1 inch wide and the length of the weight - cut a relief for the motor wires. Adhere the shelf to the weight with bathtub caulk. Using Gray foam tape, mount the Tsunami to the shelf as shown in the photo below - the power consuming components are out in free air for cooling.


Wire the right and left rails to the decoder front and rear. Wire the motor (orange to +). The wires to the capacitor were shortened and gray tape was used to tuck it into the crotch of the frame on the engineers side, as shown in the photo above.

Bruce suggests that you now take the loco to the programming track and make sure you can write to and read from the decoder. If you want to test run it afterward, that is fine, too.

LIGHTING: Since this SP version of the loco has Mars and headlights, two 5 mm golden white LEDs were used in place of the Life-Like bulbs. The one used for the Mars (upper) light was sanded round to remove the flange on the bottom of the headlight - it just fits into the bracket that way. Faller Expert cement was used to clean up the resulting scratches.


Bruce wired a 750 ohm resistor from the blue wire to the anode (long lead) of each LED. The cathode of the headlight (lower) LED was connected via a white wire to the front headlight output. The cathode of the Mars (upper) LED was connected via a yellow wire to the rear headlight output.

A bit of Kapton tape holds the wires in position.

SPEAKER: The SoundTraxx kit builds a nice enclosure to fit into the rear of the shell. Since you have the room, due to removing the electronic board from the loco, you can increase the sound a bit by building the enclosure as shown with the speaker on the outside of the box. Purple wires connect the speaker to the decoder. A 2-pin connector in this line allows the shell to be removed and stored in the original box - relieve the Styrofoam holder to make room for the speaker and enclosure.

FINISH: Set the address and adjust lighting for the yellow lead to operate the Mars light to your satisfaction. Then you can fine tune the Tsunami performance, as shown on our web site - CLICK HERE.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: In response to customer demand, we have scanned the SoundTraxx instruction sheet. CLICK HERE to see it.

Copyright © Bruce F. Petrarca 2007 - 2018; All Rights Reserved